I was treated with an abundance of kindness while traveling in Japan. I was pleased that I was able to return the favor yesterday. While working in Yosemite National Park as a ranger, I was able to give a group of Japanese visitors their own tour of the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoia. It was great fun.
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Student Ambassadors
Today, I had the opportunity to share some of my Japanese adventure with a group of young people traveling to Japan as part of the People to People Youth Ambassador program. There agenda is similar to what I experienced so I wish them the best of times! (Some of these students were from Righetti High School, my old alma mater as well as some of my former students now attending Arroyo Grande High, and other local high schools.)
If you are a Youth Ambassador visiting t his site, please leave a comment!
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Be Sure to Say Hello
I was very excited when I found out that the Santa Maria Times was interested in writing a story about my experiences in Japan. If you've read the article and you are exploring this blog, would you please add a comment and let us know of your visit? No need to use your first and last name, just scroll down to the end of this post and click on the "Comment" link. You can sign in as anonymous. I'd love to have your thoughts about my trip and this blog. I would also like to let the Japanese Fulbright Memeorial Fund know that Santa Maria is interested in their efforts!
Thanks,
Jeff Lahr
Thanks,
Jeff Lahr
Thursday, June 26, 2008
A Tough Story to Listen to
Warning: This post has graphic description of the effects of war
In 1946, after four years of war, the United States dropped two atomic bombs on Japan bringing World War II to a swift end. The two cities selected to be bombed were Hiroshima and Nagasaki, cities that were important to the Japanese war effort. The impact of the bombs was massive. Many civilians died in the attack. Keijiro Matsushima was one of the civilians that survived. This is his story. Keijiro Matsushima was a sixteen year old student when the bombs were dropped. After the war he went to college and became a teacher. He returned to Hiroshima and taught middle school for forty years. He described the impact of surviving the “A-bomb”, which is what he always called the atomic bomb. Life in Japan was difficult during the war, he said. Students were forced to work in the factories but still had to attend school. He said he was always hungry. Below is his story. I apologize for any errors but I was transcribing his speech as quickly as I could.
I was sixteen and attending school. Because our school started early we were already in the class when the bomb was dropped.
Fifteen minutes after school started, I looked outside the window. It was a beautiful day… I looked up and saw two American bombers in the sky. Maybe they had dropped the bomb already. We didn’t pay attention. There were no Japanese airplanes to attack, so we paid no attention. The planes were beautiful, flying in the sun. I imagined them as silver rice cakes, I was so hungry. When I returned to the text, that was when it exploded. A blinding flash, a shock wave and heat attacked me at the same moment. I felt like I was thrown in the oven for a moment. The whole world turned into sunset colors.
In one moment, everything was decided for us… where we were… inside the building or outside in the street…. even in the shadow or not… they said the heat was 4000 Celsius. I covered my ears and eyes and jumped under the desk. Then a huge noise followed… a very huge noise. The whole world turned to a pitch black. I couldn’t see anything. I was crawling around the floor like a blind mouse. My seat was in the front row on the south side of the classroom. I was lucky because of my seating assignment. A student in the north side had half of his face burned away. For the first time in my life I asked for help. “Help me, Buddha. Help me, Mother.” It was so quick…. and then deadly quiet. I don’t understand it -- seventy boys and no one said anything. Then the ceiling fell on our heads. We thought maybe another bomb was dropped on us. When I touched my head I was bleeding from head to feet. Again I was scared. But my bones were alright and I could move. But then I was shocked that the school building was smashed so badly. How could they have dropped hundreds of bombs with two planes? We didn’t know that one bomb could be so big.
One of my friends was hurt so I took him to the Red Cross. We were shocked that all the buildings were smashed. The street cars’ wires were broken and fires started. We could see many people from the center of the town [closer to the point where the bomb hit the earth] coming up the street car road. They were miserable. They were charcoal gray from head to feet. Some had roasted hair. Many of them had been burned so badly that their skin was peeling. Trousers were torn. Some of them had skin that was hanging from the face. I could see their red muscles under their skin. We could not see who they were; their faces were swollen like pumpkins. I wondered why these people were so badly burned.
We went to the hospital but there was no help, because even the doctors and nurses were wounded. My friend was picked up by a rescue worker and was moved to another island. All day long, wherever I went, I saw miserable people. You can imagine houses made of wood, bamboo and paper… fire was coming. .. Real hell… Many bodies went up and down the rivers for many days according to the tides.
For many years after the attack I felt guilty. I should have helped. But I was only sixteen and I only wanted to get out. I was like a baby; I wanted to get back to my mother. Americans had invented such a big bomb, I thought maybe no one would survive. But I would never surrender… that was our education.
I was very lucky because I had a home in the country to go to where my family lived, but the people in the center of town had no place to go so they had to go to the schools or shrines. So they had to go… thirsty for water in the dark.
I walked to our family’s house in the country. My mother had been working in the rice field that morning and she saw the mushroom cloud. She had heard rumors about Hiroshima so she was sure I was dead. So when she saw me she was so happy.
I went to bed, but when I woke up I was sick… it was immediate effects. Again I was lucky; I had left the city very soon after the bomb so I had less radioactivity than those people that stayed in the city. Some of the people became ill all of a sudden. We call them A-bomb diseases. Red spots on their bodies. Many strange symptoms. People losing their hair. The wounds formed pus very soon and people got maggots. They had to take them off with chop sticks. Now we know it as cancers of all sorts. It is a very horrible weapon.
When I visited Hiroshima two weeks later I could see the effect of the blast. From the train station I could see beyond the city and see several islands because few buildings were left in the city. But can you believe street cars began to run two days after the bomb? It took about ten years for all reconstruction… Japanese economy was so bad.
I left Hiroshima and studied to become a teacher. I returned to Hiroshima and taught junior high school for forty years. I survived both the bomb and the students.
In my case, for many reasons, I am one of the most fortunate survivors. I am alive. Buddha says I am alive to tell others about my experiences. Memories are being lost. Younger people don’t care so much.
The Japanese were stubborn and showed no effort to surrender. People would do anything to end the war. Mankind wanted to create this bomb, not just Americans. If Japan would have had the bomb we might have used it on America. So I don’t hold a grudge against Americans, I hold a grudge against the A-bomb. Hiroshima was bombed so mankind can see the effects of the bomb.”
Keijiro Matsushima is now in his eighties. He tells his story often in Japan and around the world. Hiroshima is now a city dedicated to trying to bring peace to the world. There is a world-famous peace park there. Keijiro Matsushima’s story was not easy to listen to, but when studying history it is important to gather all the facts, and hear multiple perspectives. We live in a complex world. Many people doubt that there will ever be a time when we will live without the threat of nuclear war or nuclear attack by terrorists. The way to achieve stability and peace in the world will always be an area of passionate debate. But Keijiro Matsushima believes that nuclear weapons are not an option.
In 1946, after four years of war, the United States dropped two atomic bombs on Japan bringing World War II to a swift end. The two cities selected to be bombed were Hiroshima and Nagasaki, cities that were important to the Japanese war effort. The impact of the bombs was massive. Many civilians died in the attack. Keijiro Matsushima was one of the civilians that survived. This is his story. Keijiro Matsushima was a sixteen year old student when the bombs were dropped. After the war he went to college and became a teacher. He returned to Hiroshima and taught middle school for forty years. He described the impact of surviving the “A-bomb”, which is what he always called the atomic bomb. Life in Japan was difficult during the war, he said. Students were forced to work in the factories but still had to attend school. He said he was always hungry. Below is his story. I apologize for any errors but I was transcribing his speech as quickly as I could.
I was sixteen and attending school. Because our school started early we were already in the class when the bomb was dropped.
Fifteen minutes after school started, I looked outside the window. It was a beautiful day… I looked up and saw two American bombers in the sky. Maybe they had dropped the bomb already. We didn’t pay attention. There were no Japanese airplanes to attack, so we paid no attention. The planes were beautiful, flying in the sun. I imagined them as silver rice cakes, I was so hungry. When I returned to the text, that was when it exploded. A blinding flash, a shock wave and heat attacked me at the same moment. I felt like I was thrown in the oven for a moment. The whole world turned into sunset colors.
In one moment, everything was decided for us… where we were… inside the building or outside in the street…. even in the shadow or not… they said the heat was 4000 Celsius. I covered my ears and eyes and jumped under the desk. Then a huge noise followed… a very huge noise. The whole world turned to a pitch black. I couldn’t see anything. I was crawling around the floor like a blind mouse. My seat was in the front row on the south side of the classroom. I was lucky because of my seating assignment. A student in the north side had half of his face burned away. For the first time in my life I asked for help. “Help me, Buddha. Help me, Mother.” It was so quick…. and then deadly quiet. I don’t understand it -- seventy boys and no one said anything. Then the ceiling fell on our heads. We thought maybe another bomb was dropped on us. When I touched my head I was bleeding from head to feet. Again I was scared. But my bones were alright and I could move. But then I was shocked that the school building was smashed so badly. How could they have dropped hundreds of bombs with two planes? We didn’t know that one bomb could be so big.
One of my friends was hurt so I took him to the Red Cross. We were shocked that all the buildings were smashed. The street cars’ wires were broken and fires started. We could see many people from the center of the town [closer to the point where the bomb hit the earth] coming up the street car road. They were miserable. They were charcoal gray from head to feet. Some had roasted hair. Many of them had been burned so badly that their skin was peeling. Trousers were torn. Some of them had skin that was hanging from the face. I could see their red muscles under their skin. We could not see who they were; their faces were swollen like pumpkins. I wondered why these people were so badly burned.
We went to the hospital but there was no help, because even the doctors and nurses were wounded. My friend was picked up by a rescue worker and was moved to another island. All day long, wherever I went, I saw miserable people. You can imagine houses made of wood, bamboo and paper… fire was coming. .. Real hell… Many bodies went up and down the rivers for many days according to the tides.
For many years after the attack I felt guilty. I should have helped. But I was only sixteen and I only wanted to get out. I was like a baby; I wanted to get back to my mother. Americans had invented such a big bomb, I thought maybe no one would survive. But I would never surrender… that was our education.
I was very lucky because I had a home in the country to go to where my family lived, but the people in the center of town had no place to go so they had to go to the schools or shrines. So they had to go… thirsty for water in the dark.
I walked to our family’s house in the country. My mother had been working in the rice field that morning and she saw the mushroom cloud. She had heard rumors about Hiroshima so she was sure I was dead. So when she saw me she was so happy.
I went to bed, but when I woke up I was sick… it was immediate effects. Again I was lucky; I had left the city very soon after the bomb so I had less radioactivity than those people that stayed in the city. Some of the people became ill all of a sudden. We call them A-bomb diseases. Red spots on their bodies. Many strange symptoms. People losing their hair. The wounds formed pus very soon and people got maggots. They had to take them off with chop sticks. Now we know it as cancers of all sorts. It is a very horrible weapon.
When I visited Hiroshima two weeks later I could see the effect of the blast. From the train station I could see beyond the city and see several islands because few buildings were left in the city. But can you believe street cars began to run two days after the bomb? It took about ten years for all reconstruction… Japanese economy was so bad.
I left Hiroshima and studied to become a teacher. I returned to Hiroshima and taught junior high school for forty years. I survived both the bomb and the students.
In my case, for many reasons, I am one of the most fortunate survivors. I am alive. Buddha says I am alive to tell others about my experiences. Memories are being lost. Younger people don’t care so much.
The Japanese were stubborn and showed no effort to surrender. People would do anything to end the war. Mankind wanted to create this bomb, not just Americans. If Japan would have had the bomb we might have used it on America. So I don’t hold a grudge against Americans, I hold a grudge against the A-bomb. Hiroshima was bombed so mankind can see the effects of the bomb.”
Keijiro Matsushima is now in his eighties. He tells his story often in Japan and around the world. Hiroshima is now a city dedicated to trying to bring peace to the world. There is a world-famous peace park there. Keijiro Matsushima’s story was not easy to listen to, but when studying history it is important to gather all the facts, and hear multiple perspectives. We live in a complex world. Many people doubt that there will ever be a time when we will live without the threat of nuclear war or nuclear attack by terrorists. The way to achieve stability and peace in the world will always be an area of passionate debate. But Keijiro Matsushima believes that nuclear weapons are not an option.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Big Buildings and Bright Lights
In twenty-four hours I'll be in the air flying home (God willing). It's hard to believe that my Japanese adventure is almost over. But don't stop visiting the blog. I have a few more posts to make. In fact, I have a long excerpt from a speaker that touched me deeply.
In the meantime, here are a few photos of downtown Tokyo!
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
My Home Stay
I know that Akash and others expressed interest in my homestay, so I'm publishing a rare excerpt from my personal journal. It's kind of long so you might just enjoy looking at the photos. The empty room was my bedroom. My futon (bed) is rolled up next to the table.
Sat., June 21
Home stay
At 8:30 I said good-bye to most of my luggage which left ahead of me to go to Tokyo by truck. My carry-on and I went to the second floor of the hotel to wait for my host family. As the families arrived there were Americans waiting on one side of the room and Japanese on the other, each very curious about one another. One by one, names were called out and connections made. For those of us at the end of the list, it felt like being a puppy in a litter waiting to be adopted. Eventually I met the couple that I was to stay with: Reiko and Kieku Takako. I was relieved to find that Reiko spoke English pretty well, while her husband nodded his head a lot.
Both Reiko and Kieko work in middle schools (different ones because husbands and wives are not allowed to work together). Reiko-san teaches math and Kieko-san is principal. They have two daughters. One is a lawyer in Tokyo and one is a student at the University of Hawaii.
We began our time together by driving across a famous bridge that connects Shikoku to a series of islands and eventually to the main island of Honchu. We drove to a vista point that overlooked a number of islands in the Inland Sea and had a picnic lunch (egg salad and salmon sandwich).
On the return trip to Saijo City, we stopped at a lacquerware factory. I’m not a huge fan of this style of art, but these things were beautiful with finely wrought painting. Most of it was in the three- to seven-hundred dollar range, with quite a bit in the thousands. On the way home we stopped at a produce market and bought fresh fish for sashimi for dinner that night. Dinner was sashimi, a fried egg and veggie pancake, broth and tofu and tomatoes. My weeks of practice with chop sticks was pointless; I more-or-less made a fool of myself. I was offered a fork at that point but I persevered (a trait admired by the Japanese) with the chop sticks.
After dinner we went to the local hot spring. The time at the hot spring was interesting, but a bit awkward since men and women are segregated and so I lost my English-speaking link. At any rate I was glad that I had read up on the procedure so I knew what to expect. It was a very relaxing way to spend the evening and I did not have to worry about the family bathing ritual at home.
We exchanged presents after returning home. The Takakos gave me a nice silkscreen print of purple leaves and baby Buddha. It was a very thoughtful gesture. I gave them stationary, a Dodgers baseball hat (I was pleased to see that Keiko wore a cap when we were on our outing), and a photo book of California.
That night I slept on the floor in a tatami room. I slept well. It’s now 6:15 and I hear the family up in the kitchen (the sound proofing of rice wall paper could use some improvements). I guess I should get up and be American.
Sunday, June 21
Home stay (continued)
It was a very Japanese Day. Even though it was Sunday, Kieku-san had to work all day at school at a parent/child sports day. Because of my interest in bonsai, Rieko, the wife, called a friend, Misako, that taught Ikebana (flower arranging) at the community center and asked if she knew anyone that taught bonsai. She did, and she arranged for us to go to his bonsai garden. So first we picked up Misako and then drove to the bonsai teacher's place in the country.
Afterwards, the five of us (Reiko, Misako, bonsai teacher and bonsai teacher’s wife) walked to the “best udon noodle cook in the Enheme prefecture.” (They are very proud of their special udon noodles in this region). I couldn’t believe there was a restaurant among the farms where we were. But it is a specialized restaurant for the community and is only open for six hours a week (week-end lunch). It was, of course, tatami style. But you walked to the kitchen and a bunch of noodles were placed in your bowl and then you returned to the bar to add the broth and condiments. I added tempura and leeks. We sat down and ate. I admired a display of ferns growing on a rock and that made Bosai Teacher very happy because it was his arrangement. They told me to slurp my noodles very loudly, and I made them proud. SSLLLUUUURRRPPPP!
The owner/cook of the restaurant was happy to have a visitor from America and asked to have his photo taken with me... it’s fun to be a celebrity!
Afterwards we returned to Misako’s house and she preformed the tea ceremony for us. She then tried to teach me how to make the tea which is supposed to be whipped up into a foamy broth, but I wasn’t successful. I was afraid that if I let my enthusiasm go unchecked, Misako would be wearing the tea.
We traveled to the next town and saw two museums based on the city’s long history of copper mining. The first museum was the home of the original owner of the mine at the turn of the century. His house was a Japanese-styled mansion (not all that big really). He was interested in western technology and was also very traditional so it was interesting to see the blend in his house.
Afterwards we went to a very contemporary museum honoring the workers of the mine, their families and the community that grew up around the mine. The community is now vanished.
We then hurried to City Hall and waved good-bye to our Japanese families. It was an experience I can't describe well but I was humbled.
Sat., June 21
Home stay
At 8:30 I said good-bye to most of my luggage which left ahead of me to go to Tokyo by truck. My carry-on and I went to the second floor of the hotel to wait for my host family. As the families arrived there were Americans waiting on one side of the room and Japanese on the other, each very curious about one another. One by one, names were called out and connections made. For those of us at the end of the list, it felt like being a puppy in a litter waiting to be adopted. Eventually I met the couple that I was to stay with: Reiko and Kieku Takako. I was relieved to find that Reiko spoke English pretty well, while her husband nodded his head a lot.
Both Reiko and Kieko work in middle schools (different ones because husbands and wives are not allowed to work together). Reiko-san teaches math and Kieko-san is principal. They have two daughters. One is a lawyer in Tokyo and one is a student at the University of Hawaii.
We began our time together by driving across a famous bridge that connects Shikoku to a series of islands and eventually to the main island of Honchu. We drove to a vista point that overlooked a number of islands in the Inland Sea and had a picnic lunch (egg salad and salmon sandwich).
On the return trip to Saijo City, we stopped at a lacquerware factory. I’m not a huge fan of this style of art, but these things were beautiful with finely wrought painting. Most of it was in the three- to seven-hundred dollar range, with quite a bit in the thousands. On the way home we stopped at a produce market and bought fresh fish for sashimi for dinner that night. Dinner was sashimi, a fried egg and veggie pancake, broth and tofu and tomatoes. My weeks of practice with chop sticks was pointless; I more-or-less made a fool of myself. I was offered a fork at that point but I persevered (a trait admired by the Japanese) with the chop sticks.
After dinner we went to the local hot spring. The time at the hot spring was interesting, but a bit awkward since men and women are segregated and so I lost my English-speaking link. At any rate I was glad that I had read up on the procedure so I knew what to expect. It was a very relaxing way to spend the evening and I did not have to worry about the family bathing ritual at home.
We exchanged presents after returning home. The Takakos gave me a nice silkscreen print of purple leaves and baby Buddha. It was a very thoughtful gesture. I gave them stationary, a Dodgers baseball hat (I was pleased to see that Keiko wore a cap when we were on our outing), and a photo book of California.
That night I slept on the floor in a tatami room. I slept well. It’s now 6:15 and I hear the family up in the kitchen (the sound proofing of rice wall paper could use some improvements). I guess I should get up and be American.
Sunday, June 21
Home stay (continued)
It was a very Japanese Day. Even though it was Sunday, Kieku-san had to work all day at school at a parent/child sports day. Because of my interest in bonsai, Rieko, the wife, called a friend, Misako, that taught Ikebana (flower arranging) at the community center and asked if she knew anyone that taught bonsai. She did, and she arranged for us to go to his bonsai garden. So first we picked up Misako and then drove to the bonsai teacher's place in the country.
Afterwards, the five of us (Reiko, Misako, bonsai teacher and bonsai teacher’s wife) walked to the “best udon noodle cook in the Enheme prefecture.” (They are very proud of their special udon noodles in this region). I couldn’t believe there was a restaurant among the farms where we were. But it is a specialized restaurant for the community and is only open for six hours a week (week-end lunch). It was, of course, tatami style. But you walked to the kitchen and a bunch of noodles were placed in your bowl and then you returned to the bar to add the broth and condiments. I added tempura and leeks. We sat down and ate. I admired a display of ferns growing on a rock and that made Bosai Teacher very happy because it was his arrangement. They told me to slurp my noodles very loudly, and I made them proud. SSLLLUUUURRRPPPP!
The owner/cook of the restaurant was happy to have a visitor from America and asked to have his photo taken with me... it’s fun to be a celebrity!
Afterwards we returned to Misako’s house and she preformed the tea ceremony for us. She then tried to teach me how to make the tea which is supposed to be whipped up into a foamy broth, but I wasn’t successful. I was afraid that if I let my enthusiasm go unchecked, Misako would be wearing the tea.
We traveled to the next town and saw two museums based on the city’s long history of copper mining. The first museum was the home of the original owner of the mine at the turn of the century. His house was a Japanese-styled mansion (not all that big really). He was interested in western technology and was also very traditional so it was interesting to see the blend in his house.
Afterwards we went to a very contemporary museum honoring the workers of the mine, their families and the community that grew up around the mine. The community is now vanished.
We then hurried to City Hall and waved good-bye to our Japanese families. It was an experience I can't describe well but I was humbled.
Friday, June 20, 2008
Club time!
As I mentioned in an earlier post, the students' afternoons are spent at club. Clubs are like elective classes which students are required to attend. But it is more like a club than a class. Students seemed to really enjoy this part of the day. Some clubs include traditional Japanese arts such as Tea ceremony, origami, and the martial arts. Other clubs include art and music. But the most popular clubs are sports: volleyball, soccer, softball and baseball, basketball and table tennis. I've posted a few photos of some of the different martial arts classes, but I can only publish photographs that obscure the identity of students because of strict Japanese law.
P.S. In the traditional Japanese archery class, you don't actually get to shoot an arrow until the second year. Also, the bamboo "sword" art is called Kendo (and some of the athletes hidden beneath the masks are girls).
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